The Kohala Coast and the Road Inland

The dry north west shore, whales offshore through the winter, and the climb from sea level to grass country in under an hour.

Humpbacks in February • Cinder cones • Sea level to 790 m

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The Drive

Kawaihae up to Waimea, about 790 m

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Whales

December to April, peak January to March

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Across the Channel

Haleakala on Maui, on a clear day

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Climate

Lava and scrub below, grass and cloud above

Why Visit

This is the drive rather than the destination. The highway runs along a dry, lava-floored coast with Maui on the horizon across the channel, and then turns inland and climbs. In under an hour you go from black rock at sea level to green grass and cattle at about 790 metres, and the temperature drops with it.

A Little History

The flows underfoot are old and the cinder cones on the flanks above are older still, grassed over and rounded. Waimea at the top is ranch country, which surprises people who came for a beach and find themselves in what looks like upland Wales with better light.

Worth Knowing

Humpbacks are in Hawaiian water from about December to April with the peak between January and March, and you can watch blows from the coast road without a boat. Pull over properly; the shoulders here are narrow and people stop badly.

Where to stay nearby

Hilton Waikoloa Village

On the Kohala coast, which is where most people base themselves for the island.

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The coast

The Coast

The highway above Kawaihae, and what is out in the channel.

The dry Kohala coast seen from the highway in late afternoon
The Kohala CoastThe Kohala coast from the highway above Kawaihae, an hour or so before the sun goes down.
A humpback whale blow on the sea off the north Kohala coast seen from grassland above
A Blow OffshoreA humpback blows off the north Kohala coast in the middle of February. The whales are in Hawaiian water from about December to April, and from this grassland above the sea you can watch them without getting on a boat.
The road inland

The Road Inland

Cinder cones and the climb to grass country.

A green cinder cone rising from dry grassland on the Big Island upcountry
Cinder Cone and GrassA grassed-over cinder cone on the upcountry road, one of many on the flanks of the island's volcanoes.

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  • Watch for blows from the grassland above the coast in winter. You do not need a boat and the elevation helps
  • Do the drive up to Waimea even if you are not going anywhere. The climate changes completely and it is the best short drive on this side
  • Take a layer. It is genuinely cold at the top after a day on the coast
  • Pull over properly for the view. The shoulders are narrow and this road is not built for stopping

Frequently Asked Questions

When are the whales there?
Humpbacks are in Hawaiian water from roughly December to April, with the peak from January to March. We watched blows offshore through February from the coast road.
Can you see Maui from here?
Yes, on a clear day. Haleakala sits across the Alenuihaha Channel and it is a Big Island view rather than a Maui one.
How long is the drive up?
Under an hour from the coast to Waimea, and about 790 metres of climb. The change in climate is the point.

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