Lihue and Kalapaki Bay

The airport town, the harbour, and the most forgiving beach on Kauai. It faces east, which is the whole reason to set an alarm.

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Where

Kalapaki Bay, Lihue, on the east side of Kauai

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Faces

East. Sunrise, not sunset

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Airport

Ten minutes away

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Water

The calmest swimming on this side of the island

Why Kalapaki

Kalapaki sits at Lihue, a sheltered crescent with the Haupu ridge standing dark across the water and the harbour at Nawiliwili just around the point. It faces roughly east, so the sun comes up out of the ocean directly in front of the beach. It is also the most forgiving water on the island, which is why it is where we sent visitors who were not strong swimmers.

The Hour Before Sunrise

The sequence worth getting up for runs about twenty minutes. First light is blue and flat, with the lights of Nawiliwili still on across the bay and the Haupu range a silhouette. Then the colour arrives fast, pink and then orange, and the palms above the beach stay black against it. By the time the sun is properly up it is over.

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  • If you are staying here the sunrise is a five-minute walk rather than a drive. Very little else on Kauai is that easy
  • Come back at dusk. The same bay reads completely differently with the ridge dark and the colour behind it
  • The stream mouth at the north end of the beach is worth walking to at first light for the curve it cuts through the sand
  • Check water-quality notices after heavy rain. They are posted and they are worth reading

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Kalapaki a good beach for swimming?
Yes, and it is the most sheltered on this coast. The point and the reef take the swell out of it, which is why it suits families and anyone who does not want to fight the water.
What time is sunrise?
It comes up out of the ocean roughly in front of the beach. Useful blue-hour colour starts about twenty minutes before, and the whole show is over within ten minutes of the sun clearing the horizon.
Is Lihue worth staying in?
It is convenient rather than scenic: the airport, the harbour and the road to everywhere. If you want one base and short drives, it works. If you want the beach to be the point, go south to Poipu.

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