The airport town, the harbour, and the most forgiving beach on Kauai. It faces east, which is the whole reason to set an alarm.
See Kauai Get Early AccessKalapaki Bay, Lihue, on the east side of Kauai
East. Sunrise, not sunset
Ten minutes away
The calmest swimming on this side of the island
Kalapaki sits at Lihue, a sheltered crescent with the Haupu ridge standing dark across the water and the harbour at Nawiliwili just around the point. It faces roughly east, so the sun comes up out of the ocean directly in front of the beach. It is also the most forgiving water on the island, which is why it is where we sent visitors who were not strong swimmers.
The sequence worth getting up for runs about twenty minutes. First light is blue and flat, with the lights of Nawiliwili still on across the bay and the Haupu range a silhouette. Then the colour arrives fast, pink and then orange, and the palms above the beach stay black against it. By the time the sun is properly up it is over.
From the blue hour before sunrise through to full colour, and the same water again at dusk.



The harbour at Nawiliwili, the stream at the north end, and the gardens above the beach.



The sunny south side. Green sea turtles on the sand in the afternoon, and the beach…
Where the east coast turns green. The river cuts back into the interior, and the beaches…
Red walls and green ridges a thousand metres up, on the dry side of an island…
Taro fields worked for centuries, running back from the bay into mountains that are wet almost…
The lighthouse on the northernmost point of the main Hawaiian islands, with sea cliffs and turquoise…
The Garden Isle. We lived on Oahu for two years and came over whenever we could:…
Where the east coast turns green. The river cuts back into the interior, and the beaches…
The south end of the island: the last cliff in the fifty states, and a black…
A line of crescent beaches on Maui’s south shore, separated by black lava, joined by a…
The sunny south side. Green sea turtles on the sand in the afternoon, and the beach…
The bay where Cook was killed, the cliff above it that held the bones of chiefs,…
Sunrise from the summit of Maui, above the cloud at three thousand metres, where the sun…
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