The sunny south side. Green sea turtles on the sand in the afternoon, and the beach the whole island seems to end up on at sunset.
See Kauai Get Early AccessThe south shore of Kauai, about 40 minutes from Lihue
South and west. This is the sunset side
Honu rest on the sand in the afternoon. Keep your distance
The dry side. Sunny when the rest of the island is not
Poipu is on the south shore, which on Kauai means dry and reliably sunny while the interior is under cloud. It has the best swimming on the island and the reef close enough in that snorkelling does not need a boat. It is also where everyone goes at the end of the day, and unlike most places that is not a reason to avoid it.
Green sea turtles haul out onto the sand at Poipu in the afternoon and sleep there, sometimes a few metres from people. They are protected and the rule is simple: give them room and do not touch them. Watching one come up out of the surf and settle is worth more than anything you will pay for on this island.
The sun goes down behind the palms at the west end and lays a band of gold across the cove, and then, if the cloud cooperates, the whole sky turns red for about five minutes after it has gone. That second act is the one people miss because they leave when the sun does. Stay another quarter of an hour.
Gold behind the palms, then red after the sun has gone. Two different pictures fifteen minutes apart.



Honu on the sand and a hala tree against the last of the light.
The airport town, the harbour, and the most forgiving beach on Kauai. It faces east, which…
Where the east coast turns green. The river cuts back into the interior, and the beaches…
Red walls and green ridges a thousand metres up, on the dry side of an island…
Taro fields worked for centuries, running back from the bay into mountains that are wet almost…
The lighthouse on the northernmost point of the main Hawaiian islands, with sea cliffs and turquoise…
The Garden Isle. We lived on Oahu for two years and came over whenever we could:…
The south end of the island: the last cliff in the fifty states, and a black…
A line of crescent beaches on Maui’s south shore, separated by black lava, joined by a…
The shoreline below the resorts, where the swell works at a shelf of black lava and…
Red walls and green ridges a thousand metres up, on the dry side of an island…
Sunrise from the summit of Maui, above the cloud at three thousand metres, where the sun…
Where the east coast turns green. The river cuts back into the interior, and the beaches…
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