Wailua

Where the east coast turns green. The river cuts back into the interior, and the beaches north of Lihue go rocky and wild.

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Where

The east coast of Kauai, about ten minutes north of Lihue

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The River

The only navigable river in Hawaii

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The Coast

Rocky and open. Walking rather than swimming

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Green

This side gets the rain, which is why it looks like this

The River and the Interior

The Wailua River is the only navigable river in Hawaii, and from the overlook above it you can see it bend back into the valley with the folded ridges of the interior behind. This is the green that gives Kauai its name, and it starts about ten minutes north of the airport. You do not have to fly to see it, though flying is how you see the rest.

The Coast North of Lihue

The shore along here is a different thing from Kalapaki or Poipu. Open lawn and coconut palms in places, and then rock, driftwood and naupaka where the surf works the black stone. It is a walking coast rather than a swimming one, and better for it.

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  • Take the overlook above the river before you decide whether to fly. It is the cheapest look at the interior you will get
  • The east-shore beaches are for walking. If you want to swim, go south
  • Late afternoon light works best on the valley. Morning puts the ridges into shadow
  • This side gets more rain than the south. Carry something light and keep going; it usually passes

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you go up the river?
Yes. It is the only navigable river in the state and boats run up it, which is the usual way people reach the interior from this side without flying.
Is the east shore good for swimming?
Not particularly. It is rocky in stretches with real surf on the black rock, and it is better walked than swum. Kalapaki to the south is calm, and Poipu is better still.
Why is this side so green?
It sits under the wet interior, and Kauai gets its rain from the northeast. The same weather that makes the middle of the island among the wettest places on earth is what makes this coast look the way it does.

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