A line of crescent beaches on Maui’s south shore, separated by black lava, joined by a path along the top, and with turtles on the reef a short swim out.
See Maui Get Early AccessMaui’s south shore, about 40 minutes from Kahului
About a mile and a half, paved, free
Honu feed on the reef. Keep your distance
West. Sunset over the water
Wailea is a run of beaches along the dry south shore, each one a crescent of pale sand between shelves of black lava. Wailea Beach is the middle of it, Polo sits a few hundred metres south and Ulua a little north, and there is a small unnamed cove at the stream outlet that most people walk past. The lava is the reason they are separate beaches at all, and it is worth as much attention as the sand.
A paved path runs along the top of the shore for about a mile and a half, linking the beaches and passing the fronts of the resorts. It is the best thing here and it costs nothing. Walk it in the early morning for the birds and the light, or in the last hour of the day when the torches go on along the lawns and everyone else is at dinner.
Green turtles feed on the reef off these beaches and you will meet them snorkelling without going looking. Give them room and let them come to you. You do not need a boat or a tour: the reef is close enough to swim to from the sand, and the water on this side is calm enough that it is easy swimming rather than an expedition.
Wailea Beach itself, Polo to the south, Ulua from the gardens above, and one unnamed cove at the stream outlet.











Black rock between one crescent and the next, which is what makes them crescents.






A mile and a half of paved path along the top of the shore, linking the beaches and the resorts.





Snorkelling off the beach. Green turtles over the reef, and a moorish idol that held still long enough.



The sun goes down over the water here, and the torches go on along the lawns. Six evenings across two Decembers.






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